Breaking and Dissipation of Ocean Surface Waves.
Outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking for researchers, modellers, engineers and graduate students in oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.
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| Main Author: | |
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| Format: | Electronic eBook |
| Language: | English |
| Published: |
Cambridge :
Cambridge University Press,
2011.
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| Online Access: |
Full text (Emmanuel users only) |
Table of Contents:
- Cover; BREAKING AND DISSIPATION OF OCEAN SURFACE WAVES; Title; Copyright; Preface; 1 Introduction; 1.1 Wave breaking: the process that controls wave energy dissipation; 1.2 Concept of wave breaking; 2 Definitions for wave breaking; 2.1 Breaking onset; 2.2 Breaking in progress; 2.3 Residual breaking; 2.4 Classification of wave-breaking phases; 2.5 Breaking probability (frequency of occurrence); 2.6 Dispersion relationship; 2.7 Breaking severity; 2.8 Types of breaking waves: plunging, spilling and micro-breaking; 2.9 Criteria for breaking onset; 2.10 Radiative transfer equation.
- 3 Detection and measurement of wave breaking3.1 Early observations of wave breaking, and measurements of whitecap coverage of ocean surface; 3.2 Traditional means (visual observations); 3.3 Contact measurements; 3.4 Laboratory measurements in deterministic wave fields; 3.5 Acoustic methods; 3.6 Remote sensing (radar, optical and infrared techniques); 3.7 Analytical methods of detecting breaking events in surface elevation records; 3.8 Statistical methods for quantifying breaking probability and dissipation.
- 4 Fully nonlinear analytical theories for surface waves and numerical simulations of wave breaking4.1 Free surface at the wave breaking; 4.1.1 Simulating the evolution of nonlinear waves to breaking; 4.1.2 Simulation of the breaking onset; 4.1.3 Influence of wind and initial steepness; 4.2 Lagrangian nonlinear models; 5 Wave-breaking probability; 5.1 Initially monochromatic waves; 5.1.1 Evolution of nonlinear waves to breaking; 5.1.2 Measurement of the breaking onset; limiting steepness at breaking; 5.1.3 Laboratory investigation of wind influence; 5.1.4 Distance to the breaking.
- 5.2 Wave-breaking threshold5.3 Spectral waves; 5.3.1 Breaking probability of dominant waves; 5.3.2 Breaking probability of small-scale waves; 5.3.3 Breaking in directional wave fields; 5.3.4 Wind-forcing effects, and breaking threshold in terms of wind speed; 6 Wave-breaking severity; 6.1 Loss of energy by an initially monochromatic steep wave; 6.2 Dependence of the breaking severity on wave field spectral properties; 7 Energy dissipation across the wave spectrum; 7.1 Theories of breaking dissipation; 7.1.1 Probability, quasi-saturated and whitecap models; 7.1.2 Kinetic-dynamic model.
- 7.2 Simulating the wave dissipation in phase-resolvent models7.3 Measurements of the wave dissipation of spectral waves; 7.3.1 Laboratory measurements; 7.3.2 Difference in the spectral distribution of dissipation due to different types of breaking mechanisms; 7.3.3 Field measurements; 7.3.4 Cumulative effect; 7.3.5 Whitecapping dissipation at extreme wind forcing; 7.3.6 Directional distribution of the whitecapping dissipation; 7.4 Whitecapping dissipation functions in spectral models for wave forecasting; 7.5 Non-breaking spectral dissipation.